Madeira - Pearl of the Atlantic
Colin Garthwaite
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Aerial view from Rustic Balcony |
Introduction
My conversation with Kate (our Engineering Office Supervisor and at least
25years my junior) went like this; "Where are you going for Easter,
Colin?" "Madeira!" "That's where all the 'olds' go
isn't it?" "Yeah, that's why we're going Kate! But I hope there's
more to it than zimmer frames, cruise boats, dessert wine and cake, 'cos
were taking our 16 year old daughter!"
And indeed there is a lot more to this sub-tropical garden island located
in the 'middle of the Atlantic'.
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| Down in the valley at Curral das Freiras |
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Island Touring
We hired a car for the week so that we could fully investigate the mountainous
interior and coastal regions of the island. From our base in the capital,
Funchal we therefore toured more or less the whole island and discovered
a fascinating and dramatic landscape with lush and exotic vegetation.
I would definitely recommend this because, although the island is not
very large, the flexibility which a car gives in terms of being able to
go where you want and when is invaluable to be able to explore and experience
to amazing volcanic landscape. However, the continuous hairpin bends on
the roads are challenging to say the least so if you're a nervous driver
it would be wise to stick to public transport, taxis or walking!
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North Coast from Sao Jorge |
Funchal, Monte Palace and Cabo Girao
Funchal is a bustling city and port which has a steady stream of cruise
ship passengers and many up market hotels. But it is also a living community
and the main market is well worth a visit to see the stalls selling the
exotic flowers and other local produce of the island. The cable car ride
from the waterfront up to Monte is a must do on everybody's visit agenda
so get there early to avoid the queues, it is worth it! The Palace Tropical
Gardens are lush and spectacular with fountains, waterfalls, gazebos and
peacocks. The renowned Toboggan Rides leave from behind the Gardens and
again the queue is enormous and the ride looks particularly hairy! To
the west of Funchal is Camara do Lobos where Churchill painted the spectacular
Cabo Girao cliffs which at around 600m are said to be the second highest
cliffs in the world.
North Coast
The north of the island is less accessible than the south and tends to
have more rainfall. The drive from Porto Moniz to Santana passes through
spectacular scenery with several tunnels through enormous cliffs dripping
with water and vegetation. In Porto Moniz itself the old lava flows create
a fascinating lunar landscape swimming pool area with waves crashing into
them.
Curral das Freiras, Mountains and Levada Walks
Madeira is an extinct volcanic island and this creates high rugged mountains
with very steep sides. This can be seen to great effect on the road to
Curral das Freiras where from a rustic balcony viewpoint you can take
aerial photographs of the crater floor 400m below. Down in the town the
mountains tower above on all sides and the terraced hillsides make good
use of the soils fertility for growing a wide variety of exotic fruit,
vegetable crops and flowers.
The highest mountains are over 1850m (~6000ft) and provide excellent
walking but weather conditions can change very quickly with temperatures
significantly lower than at sea level, take a sweater! During the winter
months the tops will normally be covered in snow.
Madeira's other well known feature are the Levada irrigation aqueducts
created in the 19th century to transport the rain water from the north
of the island to the growing areas in the south. These Levadas are still
in use today but also provide interesting and often extremely exposed
walking routes emerging from tunnels onto drops of hundreds of metres
on either side of the channel. It is often more appropriate to use public
transport for some of the longer routes which tend not to start and finish
at the same location. A good guidebook is essential for safety on these
walks eg the Sunflower Guide; alternatively join a locally guided party.
Sao Lourenco
The north eastern tip of the island is Ponto de Sao Lourenco, a magnificent
unspoilt rugged promontory which reaches out into the ocean.
Travel Tips
• Every day there are several cruise ships moored in the Funchal
harbour but a day ashore is insufficient to do justice to the island.
• The airport is modern but the final approach and take off can be
spectacular due to the mountainous terrain and the changeable wind conditions.
The runway also has a long section built on elevated stilts adding to
the white knuckle factor. Our pilot on the way out was particularly gung
ho about the conditions as we waited for ten minutes at the end of the
runway for a brief lull in the wind, but in the end assured us of our
safety as he wound up the jets to full power for take off, Tally Ho was
the cry from the cockpit at least he was enjoying it!!
• Expect some rain especially if visiting the mountains or the North
of the Island, but generally the climate is pleasant and not at all extreme.
• There is nightlife available in Funchal (apparently!).
Weblinks
http://www.madeira-web.com/ Madeira Island's complete tourism destination guide.
http://www.madeira-island.com/ Another general information site with good links to other sites.
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| Cabo Girao from Camara do Lobos |
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Curral das Feirras from Rustic
Balcony |
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| Monte Tropical gardens |
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| Porto-Moniz-lava-cliffs |
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Ribiero Frio behind Victor's |
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| Ponto de Sao Lourenco |
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| North-Coast-at-Soa-Vincente |
